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Interweave Crochet Magazine

This crochet magazine is probably geared more towards the intermediate to advanced crocheter, with most of the pattern offerings being children's and women's sophisticated wearables.  In addition, monthly columns provide new crochet book reviews, a yarn spotlight, and technical assistance.  There's a new column on "Craftivism", which provides a pattern designed by a staff member to make and donate to a featured charity.  Many beautiful projects in this magazine!  More information available on their website www.interweavecrochet.com


 

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How to Hold the Yarn?

The goal here is to find a method of feeding the yarn smoothly through the hand not holding the hook so that there is a consistent tension on the yarn as you are hooking it.  There's no one correct way to do it; you should find the method that works for you most comfortably, but there are a few standard techniques you might want to try.  One method is to loop the yarn around your pinkie once (start with your palm facing you; put the yarn in between your pinkie and ring finger, from back to front; then loop the yarn around your pinkie and pull it through between the pinkie and ring finger again, from back to front, then put the yarn through between your middle finger and index finger, from front to back, and have the yarn come up over your index finger).  Or try weaving the yarn between your fingers, staring with your palm facing you, and the yarn over your pinkie, between your pinkie and ring finger, from front to back, then bring the yarn behind your ring finger and between your ring and middle finger to the front, then between your middle and index fingers, from front to back, to loop over your index finger.  Another method is to just wrap the yarn over your index finger twice, starting again with your palm facing you, and putting the yarn between your middle and index fingers, from front to back, and looping the yarn over the index finger.  Experiment to discover which method feels most comfortable to you, which frankly might take a while, so be patient with yourself!

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Stuffing Crochet Toys

When it comes time to stuff a crochet toy that you've made, you begin to worry that the cotton-like stuffing called for in the pattern is going to poke out between the stitches.  A great way to avoid this is to first put the stuffing into some clean nylon hosiery before inserting it into the crocheted item.  Try to pick a pair that is close in color to the yarn you used in your project.  You can even double up on the hose if you really want to ensure that no stuffing is going to escape.

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How to Price Your Crochet Items

If you've decided to take the plunge and sell your crochet, one of the first things you want to think about is how to price your items.  You don't want to price them too high so that buyers won't be scared off, but you shouldn't price them too low either (after all, you are trying to start a business).  You should do some searching to see if others are selling similar items and how much they are charging, but a rough way to calculate how much to charge is to add up the costs of all of the supplies that you used to create the item and multiple by 3.  This will give you a good starting point from which to adjust up or down depending on the market for your goods.

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The Perfect Hat Fit

When working in the round to make a hat, mathematics realy helps to figure out the right size.  First, measure around the hat recipient's head, just right above the ears and across the forehead.  That will give you the circumference or perimeter of the finished hat.  Divide that number by 3.14159.  That will give you the diameter (measurement across the widest part) of the circle that you will crochet before you start to decrease to make the sides and brim of the hat.

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Double Crochet (dc)

This is the stitch that looks most recognizable as the "typical" crochet stitch and the one that you will most likely use to make all of those granny squares!  You start with 1 loop on your hook. You DO wrap the yarn around your hook before sticking the hook into the next chain or stitch below. Then, wrap the yarn around the hook and pull through a loop. You now have 3 loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull the yarn through the first 2 loops on the hook. Now, you have 2 remaining loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull the yarn through the remaining 2 loops. You now have 1 loop on your hook again and should have just completed a double crochet stitch.

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Half Double Crochet (hdc)

The half double crochet is a great stitch for use in making clothing projects.  You start with 1 loop on your hook. You DO wrap the yarn around your hook before sticking the hook into the next chain or stitch below. Then, yarn around the hook and pull through a loop. You now have 3 loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull the yarn through all 3 loops at the same time. You now have 1 loop on your hook again and should have just completed a half-double crochet stitch.

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What Kind of Afghan Do You Want to Make?

Making an afghan is a long-term but satisfying project, but first off, you need to decide what kind of afghan you want to create.  There are basically 2 kinds:  1) an afghan that is made in one big piece, or 2) an afghan that is a number of pieces (often squares) either sewn or crocheted together.  In deciding which kind of afghan you want to work on, think about whether you prefer to make your afghan while you are at home (maybe in front of the TV where your growing afghan will keep you warm as you make it) or while you are commuting or away from home (where it might be easier to take along just enough yarn and supplies to make a few squares, then put them all together later).  Either way, an afghan is a great project to work on!

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Crochet! Magazine

As modern and sophisticated as Interweave Crochet magazine is and as cute and trendy as Crochet Today! magazine is, Crochet! Magazine seems to fall into the more traditional and frilly category.  Many of the patterns employ ruffles, flowers, and more ornate trims and edges, so I would recommend it for the intermediate crocheter.  The magazine, which is the official magazine of the Crochet Guild of America, gives clear instructions for the patterns and the materials needed, photographs of the project as well as drawings and schematics for the finished product and how to put pieces together.  They do offer a nice variety of women's (and sometimes men's) wearables, projects for baby, and home and seasonal decorations.  There are regular columns that address readers' letters and "hooks and humor" as well as crochet in the news, and they too offer web bonuses at their website www.crochetmagazine.com

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Crochet Today! Magazine

This crochet magazine is a great one for all crocheters, but especially beginners.  The instructions are clear, well written, and give a lot of additional information, like alternative yarn selections, pictures and diagrams of the finished project, and tips on how to modify.  The magazine has a good variety and selection of patterns as well, with many wearables as well as seasonal items and projects for the home.  In addition, there are recurring columns that give helpful hints, new crochet-related products, and charitable organizations looking for crochet help.  You can get a sense of their offerings, some free patterns, and subscription information on their website at www.crochettoday.com

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Slip Stitch (sl st)

The slip stitch is a great way to tighten up the shape of your work and to finish off edges.  Unlike in knitting, there is no need to "bind off" your piece after you have finished crocheting it.  But, sometimes, you might want to create a border around a pot holder, for example, and really define its shape. 


The slip stitch involves inserting your hook into the stitch below (or, if you are working along the side of a crocheted piece, into the side of a stitch), yarn over, pull through a loop and keep going to pull that same loop through the loop on your hook.  You should now have just one loop on your hook and have completed a slip stitch.  It's like creating a row of chain stitches on top of the row you've just crocheted or along the side of a crocheted piece.

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Belly Dancing Moves

Now, what in the world does belly dancing have to do with crochet you ask?!  Well, let me tell you, it can be a life saver!  Ever sit for a long crochet session and feel very tight and strained afterwards?  A few belly dancing moves will fix you right up and help prevent future muscle tensions and problems.  My favorite is the arm undulations -- really gets at the same muscles you need to keep supple and loose in order to comfortably crochet.  Slowly, lift your arms up in front of you, with palms facing down, to about shoulder level.  Then, bend your wrists downward, with fingertips facing the ground.  Curl your fingers inward while flexxing your wrists upward, so that your palms are facing forward.  Uncurl your fingers to point skyward, then bend your wrists to move your palms downward again until your fingertips face the ground.  Repeat these steps in a fluid motion 5 or 6 times, then start to move your arms to the sides, still at a shoulder level.  Start to undulate your arms while still undulating your hands.  After repeating about 10 to 12 times, you will really feel it in your shoulders, elbows and wrists.  Don't overdo it, but if you do these moves a couple of times a day, you will start to feel a nice release in your upper body, which will make crocheting for long sessions so much more comfortable!

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Other Websites That Sell Handmade

There are more Etsy-like services popping up.  Two that seem to be easy to work with and are gaining momentum are Zibbet and Made It Myself.  Since they are relatively new services, both are offering free listings.  Zibbet (www.zibbet.com) also does not take a cut when you sell a product, and they offer two types of accounts, a free one with 25 listings allowed and a premium one, which is $7 a month right now (to rise to $15/month).  Made It Myself (www.madeitmyself.com) is still offering free listings as well, but they are going to be charging 3% on the sale price of your products.  But, they also have a feature where you can check a box that indicates that the price of a listed item is negotiable.  Check out their sites for more details!

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What is Amigurumi?

"Amigurumi" is the Japanese art of crocheting small stuffed animals ("ami" means crochet and "nuigurumi" means stuffed doll).  The emphasis here is definitely on achieving cuteness!  And, the idea often is to attribute human features to the animal form (you'll hear references to "anthropomorphic" creatures).  Amigurumi projects are usually worked in one continuous round or spiral of single crochet, to create the head and body.  Typically, the head is oversized, with a cute, quirky face, and the torso and limbs are undersized.  The limbs of the creature are usually crocheted separately and then attached.  You might want to use a pellet-like stuffing rather than fiber to give it some heft and weight).  And, it is often recommended that you use a crochet hook one size smaller than recommended for the yarn you've chosen for your project, in order to create a really tight fabric (but, if you're following an amigurumi pattern, you should follow the specific instructions given).


Amigurumi projects can be a lot of fun, especially for beginners since only the single crochet stitch is used, and the recipient is usually really tickled!  A plug for me:  I've got some patterns for cute sea creatures created in the amigurumi technique on my Lulu website and hope to be adding more soon!  http://stores.lulu.com/manycreativegifts


 

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The Daily Crocheter

The Daily Crocheter is a great comprehensive website for free patterns, crochet book reviews, finding yarn shops, etc.  They also have a periodic newsletter that you can sign up to receive by email.  They even have a segment called "crochet in the news", which has news and magazine articles about, frankly, knitting!  But, all the more reason to keep your eyes open for crochet items and submit them.  You can also submit your personally-created crochet patterns for posting.  I really like the direct link to eBay's yarn auctions, and there's a whole large section on charitable organizations looking for crocheted items.  Take a little time to explore this great website www.dailycrocheter.com


 


 

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Extended Double Crochet

Just like the extended single crochet (see tip), the extended double crochet stitch is created by adding one extra yarn over, pull through loop -- yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through one loop on hook (still three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through two loops on hook, yarn over and pull yarn through last two loops on hook.

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Extended Single Crochet

The extended single crochet stitch (also called double single crochet or an Elmore stitch) is a taller and looser version of the regular single crochet stitch.  Basically, you can create an extended stitch by adding an extra "yarn over, pull through loop" step to any regular stitch.  For example, with the single crochet, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, and pull through loop (two loops on hook), yarn over and pull through one loop, yarn over, pull through both loops.

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A Hank o' Yarn

Often, a yarn of good quality or a hand-spun yarn come in a "hank", which is made up of long loops of yarn that is then folded and twisted together.  Do NOT try to use a hank of yarn as is -- you just have to wind it into a ball first.  This is usually not a problem because the store where you bought your wonderful new yarn probably has a ball winder and "yarn swift" that you can use, but if you don't have access to a yarn swift, just untwist your hank and place the loops of yarn on the back of a chair, around someone else's arms, or around your own feet (makes for a great hamstring stretch!) and manually unwind the loops and wind into a ball.

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Substituting Yarn

When starting a new project, it's not so hard to purchase the number of balls or skeins of yarn indicated in the pattern (and maybe an extra ball or two, just in case).  But, what about if you are substituting another brand of yarn that comes in different ball or skein sizes? 


If you are substituting yarn, then calculate the total yardage required in the pattern (for example, the pattern says to buy 4 skeins of yarn, and each skein is 150 yards long, so the total yards required for the project is 600 yards) and divide by the number of yards contained in the substitute yarn (let's say you want to use a yarn that comes in a 200-yard skein).  That will tell you how many balls or skeins of the new yarn to buy (in our example above, 600 divided by 200 equals 3 skeins, though, again, you might want to go ahead and buy an extra skein).


But, a word of caution, don't try to substitute a bulky number 5 weight yarn for a sport or baby weight number 2 yarn!  The whole pattern would need to be reworked to account for the differences in gauge, so when substituting yarns, stay within the same weight of yarn originally called for in the pattern.

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How to Hold the Hook?

Comfort should be the key here since you are going to be crocheting for a long time hopefully.  There are two popular ways to hold the hook, but if you've devised your own method, then stick with it!  One way is to hold the hook as though it were a pencil.  The other way is to hold it as though it were a knife.  Experiment and see which way works best for you.

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What Type of Hook to Use?

Choice of hook is a very personal thing in my opinion.  Hooks are made from many different materials, like plastic, aluminum, bamboo, wood, and others.  Some hooks have a thumb rest and others are smooth and cylindrical along what is known as the shank.   Some hooks have a cushioned or ergonomic handle, whereas others have no handle at all.  Pay attention to the head of the hook as well:  some are in line with the shank, some are tapered with an indented throat area.  The best thing to do is experiment with different types of hooks and decide which ones feel and weigh best in your hand.  You might come to discover that you like different materials for your hooks depending on the type of yarn you are working with.  For example, you might want a slippery aluminum or steel hook when working with a fuzzy or nubbed yarn and a wood or bamboo hook for a smooth yarn. 

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Online Crochet Classes

If you're not able to find local in-person crochet classes, then online is the next best thing!  Crochetville has some great crochet classes for a small fee.  The site allows you access to the course materials for 2 weeks after the end of the class, and you have the opportunity to post questions to the instructor during that time as well.  Check it out at www.crochetville.org


 

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Tunisian Reverse Stitch

This stitch is great for helping to minimize curling in your Tunisian crochet project by incorporating it into the beginning and ending of your piece. 


This stitch is worked with your hook in the BACK of your work; your hook will never come out to the front.  When starting a new row, place your hook in the back of your work and insert it under the next back vertical bar, in a side-to-side motion.  Yarn over and pull through a loop.  Repeat into the next back vertical bar, continuing to move your hook side-to-side.  

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Calming the Curl

For those Tunisian crocheters out there, you know how hard it is to keep your work from curling up.  That's because the backside of items crocheted using the Tunisian technique has more yarn on it, that's just the way it is.  But, there are ways to lessen or prevent the curl.  First, you can try using a larger hook than that recommended in the pattern; in fact, you might even want to go up 2 or 3 sizes.  This adjustment will not totally eliminate the curl, but it will help minimize it.  Otherwise, you might want to vary the types of stitches you use in your project in order to get more yarn to gather on the frontside of the item.  For example, you might want to start and end your project with a few rows of the Tunisian Reverse stitch (see separate tip on this stitch).  Finally, using good blocking techniques will help a lot too (see separate tips for blocking instructions).


For some great Tunisian crochet projects, check out Kim Guzman's blog at kimguzman.wordpress.com

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Getting the Size Right

The sizing of crocheted garments are going to be different than clothing that you would buy in a retail store.  Even if you follow the pattern carefully and check your gauge, you still might not get the right fit.  The key to getting the right fit is taking accurate body measurements.  For a woman's crocheted top, the bust measurement is the critical one.  Measure around the fullest part of the bust and choose the size in the pattern based on that measurement.

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The Split Single Crochet Stitch

To create a split single crochet stitch, you are going to work an single crochet stitch between the vertical bars of the single crochet stitch in the previous row below instead of working into the top loops of the stitch in the row below like you normally would. 

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Adjusting Yarn Weight

Ever wanted to follow a pattern but use a different weight yarn than listed?  There are a couple of ways to approach this dilemma.  One is to make a gauge swatch using the desired yarn and then adjust the number of stitches in the pattern according to the outcome of the swatch.  Another is to double up finer yarn to create the weight of yarn called for in the pattern.  A rule of thumb is 2 strands of a fingering yarn will make 1 strand of a sport weight yarn; 2 strands of a sport weight yarn will equal 1 strand of a worsted weight yarn; and 1 strand of a worsted weight yarn coupled with either a fingering yarn or a sport yarn will yield a bulky weight yarn.  Here too, you are going to want to make that gauge swatch to be sure that your stitches are matching the measurements provided in the pattern.

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Wedding Garter

Need to come up with "something new" for the bride?  How about a handmade garter that's sure to become a treasured "something old" for the future.  There are great tips and patterns out there to help you get started -- take a look on www.craftster.org and www.ehow.com for some articles, and there's a great pattern on www.crochetnmore.com/bridalgarter.htm for personal use.  Bridal garters are an easy and special project to make!

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Yarn Safety

It's hard to think of a ball of yarn as a dangerous object, but it can be for pets and small children, both of whom love to put things in their mouths!  Ingested yarn can act like a saw in the intestines, cutting back and forth as it moves around, or can create a blockage that only painful and expensive surgery can fix.  So, keep yarn (and the plastic bag that you brought it home in) away from curious little ones and see our tips for some ideas on how to store your yarn safely.

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Storing Your Yarns

There are so many different ways to store your yarns, but the important thing is to have some system for storing them.  First, think about what type of container you want to keep your yarns in -- I would suggest clear plastic containers that have tightly sealing lids to keep your yarns dry and safe from critters!  Once you've gotten enough containers for your collection of yarns, you need to figure out how to sort your yarns.  The two most popular ways are either by color or by texture.  Whichever method you choose, with a little time and effort, you will have those yarns organized before long and will always know exactly what yarns you have on hand for your next great project!

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Shopping for Yarn

Shopping for yarn when traveling adds some extra fun to your trip.  There's a great website www.knitmap.com that helps you find yarn shops in the city of your destination.  Just plug in the zip code or city into the search engine as well as other factors you are looking for in a yarn store, like store hours, classes or refreshments, and hit find!  You'll get a city map that flags all of the yarn stores in the area.  Just click on a flag and get specific information.  Before you know it, you're discovering new yarns in a new city!

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Ravelry.com

Ravelry is a great website for knitters and crocheters alike.  You can find great patterns and yarns from other crafters as well as set up your own profile and page to share your creations.  There are also forums and group on which to connect with others who love crochet, just like we do!  Just go to www.ravelry.com to request an invitation (the site is still in beta form, so the organizers are trying to accommodate all those who want to join).

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The Bullion Stitch

The Bullion Stitch is also known as the Roll Stitch. It adds an interesting dimension to trims and edging and can serve as a great center for a granny square or flower motif if performed in a circle.


Start by wrapping the yarn around your crochet hook somewhere between 5 to 10 times, depending on how thick a look you want. Then, insert the hook into the next stitch (or circle loop), yarn over, and pull through a loop. Then, yarn over and pull a loop through all of the loops on your hook (it helps to keep the crochet hook end facing down, and you might need to wiggle the hook as you're pulling the loop through). You should have one loop on your hook. Do a yarn over and pull through a loop to create a chain on top – that will hold your bullion stitch in place. You've just completed a bullion stitch!
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A New Ball of Yarn and its Label

Oh, we all just want to rip that label right off our new ball or skein of yarn and get started on a project.  Well, slow down!  There's valuable information on that label, and you're going to want it later.  So, instead, peel the label off carefully so that it stays intact.  Then, clip about 6 to 12 inches of the yarn itself and staple or attach it in some way to the label.  That way, you will be remember which yarn the label went with and have all the care instructions and other valuable information needed.

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The Importance of Meditation

As many of us have discovered by now, there can be a meditative quality to crocheting. You know, it's when you just get into that groove, and the whole outside world disappears.   You truly feel your stress melt away and a sense of calm and relaxation building.  Well, try to recreate that feeling as often as possible!  Set aside a time each day, preferably the same time and amount of time, and work on an ongoing project that doesn't need too much thought or pattern reading.  An afghan or hat (anything in the round) is a great project for your crochet meditation because it's repetitive but does require some concentration.  Be sure to turn off cell phones, televisions, and anything that can be a source of distraction.  Better yet, put on some headphones and listen to instrumental music to block out the world.  And remember to enjoy!

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Putting the Pieces Together

If your project has more than one piece, you're going to have to decide how you want to put the pieces together. Sometimes crocheting the pieces together works out fine and creates a nice seam or border; other times, such a seam is too bulky or you want a less apparent joining of the pieces. Here's where that yarn needle mentioned in a previous tip comes in handy. Keeping a pack of these thick needles, through which yarn can be threaded, on hand makes it much easier to finish up your project.

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Securing and Hiding the Yarn Tails

You've finished your project, but now most likely, there is a "tail" of yarn, that leftover string, at the beginning and a tail at the end where you fastened off the yarn. There might be more tails if you have yarn color changes within the piece. It's important to secure and hide away these tails so that your piece really has that finished look and there's no risk of unraveling or fraying.


One technique is to try to hold the yarn over the chain into which you are working your stitches so that it just naturally gets weaved in during the making of the piece. Or, you can just wait until the end and use a smaller sized hook to then weave in the tails (be sure to pull the yarn through stitches on the wrong side of your piece a couple of times, each time pulling it through in a different direction). Or, you can use a yarn needle, if you left a long tail, to sew the yarn through the piece. 

 

There's no one best way to do this, and it's my least favorite part too, but it should be done (unless you're making something the interior of which is not going to be seen or is not at risk of unraveling, like a stuffed animal). Some people advocate putting a dab of superglue on the tied off point to further secure, but I haven't tried that yet.
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Crochet Podcasts

If you're like me, you can't crochet and watch TV at the same time.  I just have to keep my eyes on my work.  So, I've found that listening to audio books and podcasts is a great way to multitask!  One of my favorite crochet podcasts is The Crochet Side by Brianna.  She's got great designs and crochet tips and can be found on iTunes and at www.thecrochetside.com


 

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Not Just Blankets

There are so many great uses for granny squares.  You can use them to make sweaters, handbags, scarves, so many things -- not just blankets!  For inspiration, just look through some patterns and booklets that you already have.  Take measurements and trace the project out onto paper.  Then, lay out your granny squares on the paper to form to the pattern, join the squares together, and crochet a trim to fill in the gaps, and voila, a new way to use granny squares!

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Not Just Squares

Granny squares need not be square!  There are all sorts of shapes (hexagons, rounds, triangles) and motifs (lace, paisley, flowers) that can be made and put together into wonderful wearable or decorative projects.  Melody Griffith's "201 Crochet Motifs, Blocks, Projects, and Ideas" is a great book with good instructions and project ideas to get you started!

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More on Blocking

A word of caution: you need to check the instructions on the yarn label before using water, heat or steam on your crocheted pieces.  If heat or steam is not recommended, then an alternative is to smooth out the pieces, pin them down into the shape desired, and lightly spray the pieces with water or cover with a damp cloth, then put a plastic sheet on top, then some equally-weighted heavy books on top of the plastic. Let the pieces dry naturally overnight.  Your pieces now should not be curling.  They should be shaped as intended and ready to be sewn together. 

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Blocking Your Finished Piece

If you've just finished crocheting a garment, before you start putting your pieces together, you might want to "block" them. Blocking basically means setting the shape of each piece to prevent them from curling.  You'll want to put the piece, right side facing down, on a smooth heat-resistant surface (probably an ironing board or another surface you've prepped for this purpose with some padding and a sheet over it), smooth it into the shape it should be, and then press it. Pressing is NOT the same thing as ironing – the iron should be put on the steam setting and should be held near to the piece, just hovering over it for a second or two, and then lifted off. You should never actually slide the iron over the piece -- at most, you should just touch down slightly and quickly on it.  Alternatively, you might also want to place a damp pressing cloth on top of the piece if you want to be able to slide the iron over it.

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Be Sure to Check the Gauge

Whenever you are starting a new project, it is tempting to not make the recommended gauge swatch.  Well, don't give in to that temptation! I really dislike this part too, but a little time spent now doing the swatch truly will save you time and heartache later.  Why is it so important? Because it will help you ensure that your finished item turns out as pictured and the size you want it to be. Since each crocheter's style is different (some create loose stitches, some tighter), it's important to determine what your style is and to make adjustments once you know the size of your stitches. If you're making a garment, then it's even more important because you'll want all the pieces to fit together properly.  So, go follow the instructions and make that gauge swatch!

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Tote Bag and Supplies to Have on Hand

Whenever you start a new project, you might want to prepare a tote bag, with the following supplies in it, to keep your project in until completion.  In addition to the smooth, soft tote bag where your yarn will stay clean and snag-free, you might want to have the following items on hand:  1) yarn or tapestry needle, 2) stitch markers (if you're working in the round), 3) measuring tape, 4) scissors, 5) reading glasses, and 6) a row counter or calculator (if a large or intricate project).  You might want to set up a bag for each project you're working on if there's more than one so that it is self-contained and ready to go when you are!

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The Dye Lot is Cast

When starting a new crochet project, be sure that you have enough yarn of the same "dye lot" to complete it.  Color and dye lot information is provided on the yarn label.  It might be tempting to buy skeins of yarn that are the same color but not necessarily from the same dye lot.  Don't do it!  Subtle variations in the color may not be apparent but they will show up after you finish your project and even more so after you wash the item a few times.

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Holding the Hook

This tip is great for golfers too!  Whether you choose to hold your hook like a pencil or a knife, you should hold it as though it were a bird -- tightly enough that it won't fly away, but loosely enough that you won't kill it!  Getting just the right grip on your hook is important for maintaining the uniformity of your stitches as well as the health of your hands, fingers, and wrists.

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Finding patterns

Finding free and for-purchase crochet patterns on the internet can be overwhelming.  A good way to start is on the websites of the manufacturers of yarns that you like to work with.  Often, they will have monthly newsletters that you can sign up for and that they will email you every month.  Those newsletters usually have announcements of new yarns and will give links to free patterns.

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Making baby gifts

Crocheting a baby gift to give a new mother is so special. Not only will the gift be unique and custom-made, it will become a cherished keepsake.  Baby wash cloths, bibs, and blankets are always appreciated, and you don't even need to know the baby's size or gender!

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Single Crochet (sc)

The single is the most common stitch of all. It is the very first stitch that you learn when you start crocheting.  You start with 1 loop on your hook. You do NOT wrap the yarn around, you just go ahead and stick the hook into the next chain or stitch below and then yarn around the hook (you're looping the yarn from behind the hook up over to the front of the hook) and pull through a loop. You now have 2 loops on your hook. Yarn around the hook and pull the yarn through the 2 loops on your hook. You now have 1 loop on your hook again and should have just finished a single crochet stitch.

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