Advanced Stitches Tips

2dctog

Whenever you see "2(name of stitch)tog" in a pattern, it's another way of signifying that you are supposed to create a decrease stitch. In other words, you are going to create 1 stitch spanning over 2 previous stitches.

To perform a 2dctog, you want to think of it as starting the first dc but stopping before finishing it in order to start a second dc in the next st and then finish both stitches off together to create 1 stitch. Wrap the yarn around your hook 1 time, insert hook into first stitch and pull yarn through (you now have 3 loops on your hook). Yarn over and pull yarn through the first 2 loops on your hook. You should still have 2 loops remaining on your hook. Wrap the yarn around your hook 1 time and insert your hook into the next stitch. Yarn over and pull yarn through. You now have 4 loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through first 2 loops on your hook. You should now have 3 loops on your hook - the original loop carried over from the last full stitch, the loop from the almost-done dc in the first stitch, and the loop from the almost-done second stitch. Now, do one last yarn over and pull yarn through all 3 loops on your hook. You have completed a 2dctog.

This technique can be used at the beginning of a project also -- for example, if you are working in the round, just insert your hook into the loop or circle that you have created to start the project and follow the instructions above as you work your way around your center loop. You will end up with a cylinder rather than a flat circle.

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The Standing Stitch

Sometimes, when joining a new yarn color or starting at a different spot in a motif, the chains that you have to create to count as the first stitch can stack up and break up the look of the stitch pattern. A technique to avoid too many chains in your work is to form a standing stitch instead. Start with a slip knot on your hook. Do a yarn over if the stitch you are trying to create calls for one and then insert your hook into the row or round below where you want the stitch, then complete the stitch. This way, the yarn tail is at the top of the stitch rather than at the bottom. Later, you can go back and undo the slip knot and/or weave in the tail to complete the seamless look of this starting stitch.

(Many thanks to Myra Wood for this handy technique)

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The Puff Stitch

The puff stitch is similar to the bobble stitch but done with the half double crochet stitch. To make a 3-hdc puff stitch, yarn over, insert hook into the stitch and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook at this point), yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, and pull up a loop (5 loops on hook), yarn over, insert hook in same stitch, and pull up a loop (7 loops on the hook). Yarn over and pull through all loops on the hook. You might want to work on extra chain stitch to close the puff stitch firmly.

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Treble Crochet

Ok, so you have mastered the single, half-double, and the double crochet stitches and are now ready to add to your repertoire. The treble stitch, also known as the triple stitch, is just a higher double stitch. When starting the stitch, instead of doing just one yarn over before inserting your hook into the stitch below, you are going to "yarn over" twice before inserting your hook (meaning, you will have 3 loops on your hook before inserting your hook into the stitch below). Insert your hook, yarn over, and pull up a loop. At this point you have 4 loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull the yarn through 2 loops on your hook (you should now have 3 loops on your hook), yarn over and pull through 2 loops on your hook (you should now have 2 loops on your hook), yarn over and pull through the 2 loops on your hook.

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Extended Single Crochet

The extended single crochet stitch (also called double single crochet or an Elmore stitch) is a taller and looser version of the regular single crochet stitch. Basically, you can create an extended stitch by adding an extra "yarn over, pull through loop" step to any regular stitch. For example, with the single crochet, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, and pull through loop (two loops on hook), yarn over and pull through one loop, yarn over, pull through both loops.

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Linked (Looped) Double Crochet

This is a really interesting stitch -- you perform a row of double crochets, but the result looks like two rows of single crochet. This is because a horizontal bar is created in the middle of each stitch. To start the row, chain 3 and insert hook into the second chain, yarn over and pull through a loop. Count this loop as the yarn over at the beginning of a regular double crochet stitch, so insert your hook into the next stitch, pull through a loop and finish the dc stitch as you normally would. For the next stitch, insert your hook into that horizontal bar that was created on the prior stitch, yarn over and pull through a loop, then insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull through a loop, then yarn over and pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull through last 2 loops on hook.

Update: I have finally posted a video to help learn this stitch! Please go to my YouTube channel at www.youtube.com/manycreativegifts

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Extended Double Crochet

Just like the extended single crochet (see tip), the extended double crochet stitch is created by adding one extra yarn over, pull through loop -- yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through one loop on hook (still three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through two loops on hook, yarn over and pull yarn through last two loops on hook.

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The Bullion Stitch

The Bullion Stitch is also known as the Roll Stitch. It adds an interesting dimension to trims and edging and can serve as a great center for a granny square or flower motif if performed in a circle.

Start by wrapping the yarn around your crochet hook somewhere between 5 to 10 times, depending on how thick a look you want. Then, insert the hook into the next stitch (or circle loop), yarn over, and pull through a loop. Then, yarn over and pull a loop through all of the loops on your hook (it helps to keep the crochet hook end facing down, and you might need to wiggle the hook as you're pulling the loop through). You should have one loop on your hook. Do a yarn over and pull through a loop to create a chain on top – that will hold your bullion stitch in place. You've just completed a bullion stitch!

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The Double Treble Crochet Stitch

The double treble crochet stitch (dtr) is the longest stitch of the crochet world. It gets its name from the fact that you will wrap yarn around your hook the same number of times as though you were making a double (1 time) and a treble (2 times) stitch. So, wrap yarn around your hook 3 times before inserting it into the next stitch. Yarn over and pull yarn through 2 of the loops on your hook (there should have been a total of 5 loops on your hook -- the loop from the previous stitch, the 3 loops created in the yarn overs, and the loop you had just pulled through). Yarn over and pull yarn through the next 2 loops on your hook, and repeat this again 2 more times, for a total of yarn over and work off 2 loops 4 times.

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The Chevron Stitch

The chevron stitch gives you that wonderful zigzag effect that most often shows up in baby blankets and afghans but that could be an interesting alternative stitch to use for a sweater or jacket.

The chevron is usually done in the single crochet stitch. The bottom of the "V" is created by skipping a stitch and the top of the V is created by doing 3 scs into one stitch. So, for example, decide how wide you want your item to be and chain a multiple of 16 stitches plus 2 (don't forget it's going to make those V patterns, so bend your chain into Vs to really determine what the width is going to be). Work 2 scs into the second chain from the hook, work 1 sc into next 7 chs, skip 1 ch (to create the bottom of the V), work 1 sc into next 7 chs, 3 scs into next ch (the top of one side of the V). Keep repeating pattern across. Turn, and on the second row, ch 1, work 2 scs into 1st st, 1 sc into next 7 sts, skip next 2 sts, 1 sc into next 7 sts, 3 scs into next st. Keep repeating across to end. Repeat Row 2 until length of item is achieved.

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The Loop or Fur Stitch

Making a loop stitch (also called the fur stitch) is just like making a single crochet stitch except you create a loop in the back of the stitch (so, when you are working a row of loop stitches, you are working on the "wrong" side of the finished product because the loops will all be on the back side of the row on which you are working).

To make a loop stitch, insert hook into the next stitch; before you do a yarn over and pull through a loop, use your middle or index finger to catch the yarn on the back side of the row and make a loop, then hook the top part of the loop and pull it through, then yarn over and complete the single crochet stitch just like you normally would. When you remove your finger, there should be a single crochet stitch with a loop sticking out the back of it! To create a "furry" look, alternate a row of single crochet loop stitches with a row of either regular single crochet stitches or slip stitches.

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Working with Posts

Using a front post double crochet (FPdc) stitch is a great way to achieve the look of cables in crochet. The technique is not that hard -- it just involves inserting the hook into a stitch a row below the one you are currently on, pulling through the yarn, and completing the double crochet stitch as you normally would. As a result, you've got stitches that stand up from the rest of the fabric, and when performed at the same spot each Right Side (RS) row, you've got the look of cables. See my Fisherman's Scarf on Ravelry for a fun and easy project using FPdcs! http://www.ravelry.com/designers/phyllis-serbes

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The Split Single Crochet Stitch

To create a split single crochet stitch, you are going to work an single crochet stitch between the vertical bars of the single crochet stitch in the previous row below instead of working into the top loops of the stitch in the row below like you normally would.

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The Shell Stitch

The shell stitch is that beautiful fan-like stitch that is often used to trim blankets, baby items, and even the edging of sweaters. It's usually done in multiples of 4 stitches: 1 single crochet, skip a stitch, 5 double crochet stitches into next stitch, skip 1 stitch, 1 sc in next st. Keep repeating this pattern around the edge of your item.

Alternatively, skip 2 stitches on each side of a shell stitch if you just want shells and no single crochet stitches in between.

Experiment with how many stitches to skip in between shells so that your work will lay flat when done.

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The V Stitch

The V stitch is a fun one that adds a little interest and texture to your project and can be a great base for shells or puffs on the next row.

The V stitch is usually made with the double crochet stitch. Basically, do (1dc, ch 1, 1dc) in st below, then skip the next st. Start with an even number of chain stitches. You can use the V stitch throughout -- in the next row, perform the V in the ch-1 space in the row below.

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The Picot Stitch

This stitch is a great one for adding a simple trim to a piece on the last row. After completing a stitch (usually the single crochet stitch), you should chain 3 times, then insert the hook back into the last stitch that you did. Yarn over and pull yarn through -- the picot is made and you can resume working stitches across until you want to add another picot.

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The Popcorn Stitch

The popcorn stitch, like the bobble stitch, is a great way to add texture and dimension to your crochet project. Unlike the bobble stitch, which involves making 3 to 5 double crochet stitches half-way and then joining them to complete, the popcorn stitch involves completing 3 to 5 double crochet stitches in the same stitch, then taking the hook out of the loop, inserting it into the top of the first double crochet made in the group, picking up the loop at the end of the grouping and pulling it through to complete the popcorn stitch.

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